Refreshing Delights To Get Your Summer Chill Back
Our favorite al fresco Italian dishes that beat the heat
The intense summer calore (heat) has been hovering over us since early July and doesn’t show signs of letting up anytime soon. Random side note - every time the torrid temps rise, I can’t help but remember this Nestea commercial from my university days - Antò fa caldo, circa 2001, which we would joke about and repeat ad nauseam. But I digress.
When the temps soar and we become puddles, the last thing we want to do is turn on the oven - it's time to take a ferie (holiday) from la cucina. From gelato to granita, panzanella to insalata di riso, we keep a constant rotation of these refreshing al fresco dishes on our weekly menus. Keeping it light and easy this week with a couple recipes and some tips/recommendations on where to track down some of the best Italian summer treats during your next trip to Italia.
Panzanella
After living in Siena and Montalcino for close to 9 years, the typical Tuscan bread salad, Panzanella, is a summer staple for me. Cucina Italiana’s classic recipe basically matches what I was taught, along with a Panzanella primer (in English).
The trick to a perfect Panzanella is getting the bread just soft enough, but not too soggy, so that it breaks up nicely to share space with its veggie forward companions including tomatoes, cukes and onions. The type of bread itself is also important – a nice, crusty stale loaf is what you’re after.  If you can find it senza sale (unsalted) even better. There are also a number of fun takes at the OG version to try out, such as Marissa Lippert’s version with strawberry or stone fruit and burrata for a true BRAT summer salad.
Insalata di Riso
For spiaggia (beach) goers, an alternative to the typical panino is insalata di riso (rice salad). I first started eating insalata di riso when my uni friends would make a giant batch to bring on a scampagnata (countryside outing) or when we headed to the local pool in between exams. I like to think of it like a kitchen sink salad. The Giadzy version is closest to what my amici taught me to make. Over the years, I’ve mixed it up a bit, eliminating the provolone and prosciutto cotto, in favor of marinated artichokes, sundried tomatoes and capers to pair with tuna. Sometimes I go crazy and add some pesto ma non lo dire a nessuno (don’t tell anyone). Another option is to buy the premade giardiniera (pickled vegetables) condiment from your favorite alimentari - Juls' Kitchen has a great recipe and video.
Insalata Caprese
Nothing easier than pulling together this classic ode to Italia red, white and green salad, right? Ni (sort of). For us, it’s all about the quality of the tomatoes and mozzarella. Oh, and excellent EVOO. The beloved Italian cookbook author Marcella Hazan shared her caprese top tips for at-home cooks over 10 years ago which still ring true today.
Like Marcella, we prefer a milky, fresh buffalo’s milk mozzarella, while others opt for fior di latte (cow’s milk mozzarella). Either way, the fresher and milkier, the better. Tomatoes should be at their peak, ripe in flavor and bursting with juiciness. And add your highest quality EVOO, whether grassy or a little picante, to drizzle over. È tutto qui. Simple never tasted so good.
Gelato
Gelato is ubiquitous with Italy. When Erica was tasked with selecting the 3 Top Gelato Spots in Italy for Luxe City Guide, she had her work cut out for her. She had at least 11 top gelato spots in Rome which she wrote for Prior. I’d add Otaleg (gelato spelt backwards) in Rome and Perchè No in Florence to her fantastic lists.
For Milan, we defer to our favorite Signorina in Milan, Jackie DeGiorgio, for her favorite gelato shops. And as I mentioned in a recent newsletter, I was blown away by Gasparotto's gelato in Ischia. Erica’s pals at Walks of Italy also have some great gelato recos for Torino, Verona and Napoli. We’d also agree with them on Gelateria Dondoli the gelato gem and school tucked away in the Tuscan hill town of San Gamignano.
Granita and Grattachecca
Different but same, some will say when discussing the slushy summer chill out drinks grattachecca and granita. But we don’t agree. Though but end up slushy, granita and grattachecca are two entirely different treats that achieve the exact same results- a sweet, summer cool down.
In Sicily, granita is king with a story that some say goes back to the 9th century when Arab traders made simple concoctions of ice, sugar, and local fruits like lemons and almonds. Others tell tales of hill tops where town residents hiked up Mount Etna to collect snow and would mix in fruit juices, honey, and sugar to make a sweet treat. Whichever the case, by the 18th century, granita was the flavour of the summer, appearing at street carts and cafes, with variations like coffee granita emerging in the 19th century.
Today, granita remains a beloved part of Sicilian culture and can be found in cafes and gelaterias across Italy. Flavors range from the classic lemon, almond, and coffee to more adventurous combinations like blackcurrant, pistachio, and even savory options. Granita is typically served with a side of brioche for breakfast (BOLO for our upcoming Sicily guide). In the meantime, you can find granita from Rome south. Two of our eternal city favorites are Sciascia 1919 in Prati neighborhood or Ciampini in the historical center. Or make your own at home with these recipes.
If you’ve been keeping up with Ciao Bella, you’ll know that Erica is the authority on Rome’s icy treat Grattachecca. Not to be confused with granita - this frozen confection is made by hand-shaving ice off a block, referred to as the "checca" in the local Roman dialect. The shaved ice is then doused in vibrant fruit-infused or other flavored syrups and topped with everything from preserved cherries to a zesty blend of fresh lemon juice and coconut pieces.